Put plywood gussets or metal plates at the existing rafter/joist junction. This would give you 12"of additional head room and still keep the rafter tie in the lower third of the roof height (a code requirement). Nail the 2x8 as rafter ties as high up as you want, up to a max of 20" above the top plate for the top of the rafter tie. I am suggesting 2x8 because they will be stiffer than 2圆 and thus less likely to sag noticeably. Buy some 2x8 at 20' to use as your new ceiling joists. You might be able to do the following without messing with a kingpost and still be within code, sort of. The problem you're faced with is you can't move the joists, because they are what attach the rafters to the top plate. The new roof is much nicer than the repaired older roof. I don't know that the labor is much different but quite a materials difference. Last summer we totally removed an old roof and put new trusses on. Straightened the ceilings back out and recovered it at the 7' height. I gusseted everything together better and added hurricane ties. We discussed the same scenarios and in the end it just wasn't worth modifying it. It is very difficult and sometimes impossible to pull all that dried and twisted old wood into one nice flat package. I've recently applied gussets to that type of ceiling joist/rafter joint in an old house. If the roofing is about done it would help sway that. I do agree with R&R'ing it though, I'd probably start by pricing it out with raised heel scissor trusses. With any of these scenarios you should get an engineer to detail it. Similarly, you could harden up that lower rafter end with blocking and gussets and install a raised tie, in the lower third of roof height. I would give that some thought, especially if the asphalt shingles (?) are in sad shape and need replacing anyway. And it probably could be done much quicker than by re-engineering from below. With an engineered truss you would have the peace of mind of trusses constructed to meet the loads of your area. The other option I see is to scrape off the roof altogether and replace it with cathedral or scissor trusses. Though that would be better from a code standpoint. It would have some challenges but would be cheaper and maybe easier than replacing the walls altogether. You could do that by jacking up the entire roof and adding in top plates to get a few more inches. It's possible to do the same if the ceiling joists overlap above the middle wall, it just take a little more work and finesse.Īs to the ceiling height issue, I don't see that you have many options. Assuming the ceiling joists are joined in a flush butt joint, you could insert a king post in the middle and secure with plywood gussets on both sides, glued and nailed (not screwed) with sufficient penetration and density to meet engineering requirements. I think you can address both of those concerns by creating a truss out of the rafters and joists. Those joists serve two purposes: 1) to attach a ceiling to, and 2) to keep the exterior walls from spreading out due to rafter thrust. All you need to worry about is keeping the ceiling joists (also serving as rafter ties) from falling down. It can be removed without affecting how the roof load is supported by the exterior walls. The good news is that the center wall is not load bearing.
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